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Popover with maple butter at Popovers on the Square
Popover with maple butter at Popovers on the Square
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Eater Recommends: What to Eat and Drink in Portsmouth and Kittery

Seek out these dishes and drinks on your next trip up north

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Popover with maple butter at Popovers on the Square
| Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Don't have time to read the entire Guide to Dining and Drinking in Portsmouth and Kittery before traveling there? Here are a few select picks — favorite dishes of the Eater Boston team — for what to eat and drink when visiting Boston’s easily accessible northern neighbors. Feel free to share your own favorites in the comments below.

Unless otherwise noted, all spots on this map are within a reasonable walking distance from downtown Portsmouth; the farthest spots to reach on foot are in Kittery’s Wallingford Square, just over a half-hour walk from downtown Portsmouth. To head farther up to the Kittery Outlets (and restaurants such as Bob’s Clam Hut and When Pigs Fly), a car is required; it’s not at all pedestrian-friendly coming from the south.

For a broader overview of dining and drinking options in Portsmouth and Kittery, check out the full guide.

Map points are listed geographically from north to south, not ranked. This map will be updated periodically, whenever the Eater Boston team has the chance to return to Portsmouth and Kittery to try more things. In the meantime, leave a comment below or email us to tell us about dishes and drinks we should seek out on our next trip.

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Note: Restaurants on this map are listed geographically.

When Pigs Fly

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Fans of the ubiquitous local bread will be pleased to visit the factory store and restaurant up in Kittery. Wood-fired pizza is only the tip of the iceberg at this fun spot, but start there — perhaps with this pineapple, capicola, and jalapeno pizza — before exploring other items, such as the jumbo chicken tenders or the warm Bavarian pretzel. Great beer list, too. Coming from Portsmouth? Take a car to When Pigs Fly; the highway gets in the way of walking.

Pineapple, capicola, and jalapeno pizza at When Pigs Fly
Pineapple, capicola, and jalapeno pizza at When Pigs Fly
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Beach Pea Baking Company

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About a 10-minute walk beyond Kittery’s Wallingford Square, Beach Pea Baking Company is part of a little cluster of food businesses along the highway that also includes Carl’s Meat Market, Golden Harvest Produce Market, and Terra Cotta Pasta Co. Try plenty of bread at Beach Pea, but don’t miss the cookies, particularly the double chocolate chunk. The gigantic cookie is chewy on the inside, crispy on the outside, and full of melting chocolate chunks throughout. Snag a spot at a picnic table out front and watch the world rush by.

Double chocolate chunk cookie at Beach Pea Baking Company
Double chocolate chunk cookie at Beach Pea Baking Company
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Lil's Cafe

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This Wallingford Square cafe is known for its crullers, so eat one. Light, airy, and sweet, they’re the best form of doughnut. Keep an eye out for variations; the original flavor is usually accompanied by another option, such as chocolate. Grab a seat on the cozy patio if weather permits.

Overhead view of a cruller with a white glaze. It sits on white tissue paper on the surface of an aged picnic table.
Cruller at Lil’s Cafe
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Anju Noodle Bar

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Maybe it’s a hot summer day, you’ve just trekked the half-hour from downtown Portsmouth on foot, and you’re ravenous. Hangry, even. Head straight for the adorable Anju Noodle Bar, full of bowls and bowls of noodles — and plenty of other irresistible dishes as well. Start with the pork bun (cucumber, pickled red onion, hoisin, and kimchi mayo) or the vegetarian-friendly falafel bun (falafel, tahini sauce, cucumber, tomato, lettuce) and then agonize over the rest of your order, or just dive into the ultimately satisfying spicy miso ramen (pictured here): bone broth, spicy miso paste, Sun noodles, chashu pork, charred scallions, soy egg, and pork fat. Another must-try: the vegetarian-friendly kimchi mac & cheese with Welsh rarebit, togarashi, scallions, kimchi, dancing bonito flakes, and okonomi.

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar
Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

The Wallingford Dram

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On research trips to Portsmouth and Kittery to compile and update this map and its associated guide, the Eater Boston team tries to avoid visiting venues more than once — too many places to try, too little time. The exception is the Wallingford Dram, which keeps pulling the team back on every visit, beckoning with its incredible cocktails, cozy vibe, and extraordinarily friendly staff. Try any cocktail on the menu; there’s no wrong choice here.

A cocktail at the Wallingford Dram
A cocktail at the Wallingford Dram
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Earth Eagle Brewings

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Nothing goes better with a flight of beer than a giant, soft, hot pretzel, and Earth Eagle absolutely delivers in this department. It’s the perfect complement to Earth Eagle’s funky beers that feature herbs and foraged ingredients.

Pretzel and beer flight at Earth Eagle Brewings
Pretzel and beer flight at Earth Eagle Brewings
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Black Trumpet

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The menu changes with the seasons, but keep an eye out for the poutine-inspired tater tot dish; it’s called poutots, naturally. Shrimp étouffée is also a solid choice at this intimate bistro with waterfront views.

Shrimp etouffee at Black Trumpet
Shrimp etouffee at Black Trumpet
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Moxy American Tapas Restaurant

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This big sibling to the Franklin Oyster House is full of joyful tapas-style small plates that play around with traditional New England flavors and ingredients. The menu is priced to allow diners to try lots of different things; make sure the lacquered pork belly bites are one of those things. And might as well finish the meal with whoopie pie sliders.

Lacquered pork belly bites at Moxy
Lacquered pork belly bites at Moxy
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Just like its big sibling in Boston, Row 34 in Portsmouth excels at all things seafood, particularly oysters and lobster rolls. Try the warm buttered version and of course some butterscotch pudding for dessert.

Lobster is served on a buttered and griddled hot dog bun, and is accompanied by chips, slaw, and a slice of lemon.
Lobster roll at Row 34
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Gilley's

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For when those 1:30 a.m. hot dog hunger pangs strike, Gilley’s has always been there and will always be there.

Hot dogs at Gilley’s
Hot dogs at Gilley’s
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Ceres Bakery

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Enjoy a leisurely breakfast (try a baked good) at this brightly colored, classic Portsmouth bakery and cafe, which has been around since 1980 (and in the current location since ‘83). The stained glass has solid advice: “Eat something. You’ll feel better.” Cash or check only, but there’s an ATM onsite.

Croissant, cookie, and coffee at Ceres Bakery
Croissant, cookie, and coffee at Ceres Bakery
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Fezziwig's Food & Fountain

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This whimsical shop, which feels a bit Harry Potter-esque, offers a full menu of sandwiches, savory and sweet crepes, espresso, and more, but it’s especially worth a visit in the ice cream department thanks to its elaborate sundaes (available in half and full portions) and shakes. Try the affogato-inspired sundae called the Olivier, pictured here, or the Thistle, a strawberry shake adorned with Pop Rocks and a Rice Krispies treat, diet be damned.

The Olivier, an espresso-topped sundae at Fezziwig’s Food & Fountain
The Olivier, an espresso-topped sundae at Fezziwig’s Food & Fountain
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Latchkey

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In a city with more of a beer focus, Latchkey is one of a small number of dedicated cocktail bars. Try a classic, like the Hemingway daiquiri, or a build-your-own Old Fashioned with numerous options. The speakeasy-inspired bar — which actually has entrances that are a bit hard to find, in the true spirit of a speakeasy — features a huge whiskey list and live entertainment.

Hemingway daiquiri at Latchkey
Hemingway daiquiri at Latchkey
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

The Franklin Oyster House

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The menu’s always changing here, but any seafood dish is a great option; try the squid ink ramen (pictured here) if it’s available. The chicken sandwich and an order of fries is always a good bet as well.

Squid ink ramen at Franklin Oyster House
Squid ink ramen at Franklin Oyster House
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Popovers on the Square

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Popovers with maple butter. Popovers stuffed with scrambled eggs and cheese. Popovers stuffed with lobster salad. Popovers on the side of crab cakes. Popovers on the side of quiche. Popovers on the side of mac and cheese. Popovers on the side of pasta. Popovers...

Popovers on the Square
Popover with maple butter at Popovers on the Square
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

La Maison Navarre

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Macarons are wonderful. Ice cream is wonderful. Why not put them together? This downtown French cafe does just that, offering ice cream-filled macarons in a variety of flavors. Recipe for a good afternoon: Drink a glass of wine and use La Maison Navarre’s wifi while trying every flavor of macaron.

Ice cream macarons and regular macarons at La Maison Navarre
Ice cream macarons and regular macarons at La Maison Navarre
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Lexie's Joint

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This funky burger joint boasts full service and booze (beer and wine only), as well as endlessly customizable burgers and dogs. Some days call for toppings galore, but sometimes it’s best to keep it simple with a plain hot dog and some truffle fries topped with parmesan. After eating here, head down the street to check out Liars Bench Beer Company.

Hot dog with truffle fries at Lexie’s Joint
Hot dog with truffle fries at Lexie’s Joint
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

When Pigs Fly

Pineapple, capicola, and jalapeno pizza at When Pigs Fly
Pineapple, capicola, and jalapeno pizza at When Pigs Fly
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Fans of the ubiquitous local bread will be pleased to visit the factory store and restaurant up in Kittery. Wood-fired pizza is only the tip of the iceberg at this fun spot, but start there — perhaps with this pineapple, capicola, and jalapeno pizza — before exploring other items, such as the jumbo chicken tenders or the warm Bavarian pretzel. Great beer list, too. Coming from Portsmouth? Take a car to When Pigs Fly; the highway gets in the way of walking.

Pineapple, capicola, and jalapeno pizza at When Pigs Fly
Pineapple, capicola, and jalapeno pizza at When Pigs Fly
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Beach Pea Baking Company

Double chocolate chunk cookie at Beach Pea Baking Company
Double chocolate chunk cookie at Beach Pea Baking Company
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

About a 10-minute walk beyond Kittery’s Wallingford Square, Beach Pea Baking Company is part of a little cluster of food businesses along the highway that also includes Carl’s Meat Market, Golden Harvest Produce Market, and Terra Cotta Pasta Co. Try plenty of bread at Beach Pea, but don’t miss the cookies, particularly the double chocolate chunk. The gigantic cookie is chewy on the inside, crispy on the outside, and full of melting chocolate chunks throughout. Snag a spot at a picnic table out front and watch the world rush by.

Double chocolate chunk cookie at Beach Pea Baking Company
Double chocolate chunk cookie at Beach Pea Baking Company
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Lil's Cafe

Overhead view of a cruller with a white glaze. It sits on white tissue paper on the surface of an aged picnic table.
Cruller at Lil’s Cafe
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

This Wallingford Square cafe is known for its crullers, so eat one. Light, airy, and sweet, they’re the best form of doughnut. Keep an eye out for variations; the original flavor is usually accompanied by another option, such as chocolate. Grab a seat on the cozy patio if weather permits.

Overhead view of a cruller with a white glaze. It sits on white tissue paper on the surface of an aged picnic table.
Cruller at Lil’s Cafe
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Anju Noodle Bar

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar
Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Maybe it’s a hot summer day, you’ve just trekked the half-hour from downtown Portsmouth on foot, and you’re ravenous. Hangry, even. Head straight for the adorable Anju Noodle Bar, full of bowls and bowls of noodles — and plenty of other irresistible dishes as well. Start with the pork bun (cucumber, pickled red onion, hoisin, and kimchi mayo) or the vegetarian-friendly falafel bun (falafel, tahini sauce, cucumber, tomato, lettuce) and then agonize over the rest of your order, or just dive into the ultimately satisfying spicy miso ramen (pictured here): bone broth, spicy miso paste, Sun noodles, chashu pork, charred scallions, soy egg, and pork fat. Another must-try: the vegetarian-friendly kimchi mac & cheese with Welsh rarebit, togarashi, scallions, kimchi, dancing bonito flakes, and okonomi.

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar
Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

The Wallingford Dram

A cocktail at the Wallingford Dram
A cocktail at the Wallingford Dram
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

On research trips to Portsmouth and Kittery to compile and update this map and its associated guide, the Eater Boston team tries to avoid visiting venues more than once — too many places to try, too little time. The exception is the Wallingford Dram, which keeps pulling the team back on every visit, beckoning with its incredible cocktails, cozy vibe, and extraordinarily friendly staff. Try any cocktail on the menu; there’s no wrong choice here.

A cocktail at the Wallingford Dram
A cocktail at the Wallingford Dram
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Earth Eagle Brewings

Pretzel and beer flight at Earth Eagle Brewings
Pretzel and beer flight at Earth Eagle Brewings
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Nothing goes better with a flight of beer than a giant, soft, hot pretzel, and Earth Eagle absolutely delivers in this department. It’s the perfect complement to Earth Eagle’s funky beers that feature herbs and foraged ingredients.

Pretzel and beer flight at Earth Eagle Brewings
Pretzel and beer flight at Earth Eagle Brewings
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Black Trumpet

Shrimp etouffee at Black Trumpet
Shrimp etouffee at Black Trumpet
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

The menu changes with the seasons, but keep an eye out for the poutine-inspired tater tot dish; it’s called poutots, naturally. Shrimp étouffée is also a solid choice at this intimate bistro with waterfront views.

Shrimp etouffee at Black Trumpet
Shrimp etouffee at Black Trumpet
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Moxy American Tapas Restaurant

Lacquered pork belly bites at Moxy
Lacquered pork belly bites at Moxy
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

This big sibling to the Franklin Oyster House is full of joyful tapas-style small plates that play around with traditional New England flavors and ingredients. The menu is priced to allow diners to try lots of different things; make sure the lacquered pork belly bites are one of those things. And might as well finish the meal with whoopie pie sliders.

Lacquered pork belly bites at Moxy
Lacquered pork belly bites at Moxy
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Row 34

Lobster is served on a buttered and griddled hot dog bun, and is accompanied by chips, slaw, and a slice of lemon.
Lobster roll at Row 34
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Just like its big sibling in Boston, Row 34 in Portsmouth excels at all things seafood, particularly oysters and lobster rolls. Try the warm buttered version and of course some butterscotch pudding for dessert.

Lobster is served on a buttered and griddled hot dog bun, and is accompanied by chips, slaw, and a slice of lemon.
Lobster roll at Row 34
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Gilley's

Hot dogs at Gilley’s
Hot dogs at Gilley’s
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

For when those 1:30 a.m. hot dog hunger pangs strike, Gilley’s has always been there and will always be there.

Hot dogs at Gilley’s
Hot dogs at Gilley’s
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Ceres Bakery

Croissant, cookie, and coffee at Ceres Bakery
Croissant, cookie, and coffee at Ceres Bakery
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Enjoy a leisurely breakfast (try a baked good) at this brightly colored, classic Portsmouth bakery and cafe, which has been around since 1980 (and in the current location since ‘83). The stained glass has solid advice: “Eat something. You’ll feel better.” Cash or check only, but there’s an ATM onsite.

Croissant, cookie, and coffee at Ceres Bakery
Croissant, cookie, and coffee at Ceres Bakery
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Fezziwig's Food & Fountain

The Olivier, an espresso-topped sundae at Fezziwig’s Food & Fountain
The Olivier, an espresso-topped sundae at Fezziwig’s Food & Fountain
Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

This whimsical shop, which feels a bit Harry Potter-esque, offers a full menu of sandwiches, savory and sweet crepes, espresso, and more, but it’s especially worth a visit in the ice cream department thanks to its elaborate sundaes (available in half and full portions) and shakes. Try the affogato-inspired sundae called the Olivier, pictured here, or the Thistle, a strawberry shake adorned with Pop Rocks and a Rice Krispies treat, diet be damned.