Critic Finds Proper Southern Food at Southern Proper

“Classic” Southern

Colin Kingsbury writes this month’s review for Boston Magazine, putting Southern Proper (600 Harrison Ave., Boston) under the microscope. Under the direction of chef and owner Jason Cheek, the South End restaurant “delivers a classic canon of barbecued hog, fried everything, and carb-heavy side dishes,” Kingsbury writes. Starting out strong with the basics, Southern Proper’s pimiento cheese comes with pepper jam and popovers, while its biscuits have the “perfect balance of crispy crust and fluffy interior.” The hush puppies are true to form, but the fried green tomatoes are limp on his visit, Kingsbury writes. For the main courses, he recommends bringing a few friends, and even then it will still be “hard to leave without a doggie bag.” The St. Louis-style ribs are “nearly pulled pork tender,” and the coffee-rubbed pork belly stands out in quality “on either side of the Mason-Dixon Line.” Kingsbury recommends the hot fried chicken and notes that many of the plates “scream to be shared family-style.” Overall, he rates the restaurant two-and-a-half stars out of four, between “good” and “generally excellent.”

A “Charming as Hell” Wine Bar

MC Slim JB visits Nathálie Wine Bar in Fenway (186 Brookline Ave., Boston) for his latest review in the Improper Bostonian. The second wine-centered venture from Haley Fortier has a “novel and thrilling” selection, largely headlined by female winemakers, Slim writes. There are by-the-glass and half-bottle options, and Slim makes note of the 2015 Crociani Rosso di Montepulciano, which has “the intensity and subtlety of much costlier Tuscan reds,” along with the 2016 Pianazze, which is “all clean, unoaked stone fruits and herbs.” For food, Nathálie offers “wine-complementary” plates, including montaditos, or grilled bread with toppings like “luxurious mussels,” caramelized onion and parsley, and “wondrous grilled eggplant” with spicy mayo. There are superb selections on the cheese plate, Slim writes, and he recommends the foie gras torchon with cornbread and apple butter.

Something for Everyone

Marc Hurwitz reviews Brothers Restaurant in Brookline (404 Harvard St.) for the Dig. The restaurant serves a menu that draws upon several cuisines, including Greek, South American, and Korean, among others. There are always rotating specials and seasonal items, so the menu changes often, but Hurwitz writes that there are plenty of highlights regardless. His favorites include the fried calamari with hot cherry peppers, the garlicky rosemary truffle fries with aioli, and a falafel hummus plate with stuffed grape leaves. He also calls attention to the short rib tacos and pan-seared rare ahi “that’s good enough to convert people who aren’t typically into raw or lightly cooked fish.” The restaurant also serves breakfast, including challah French toast and eggs Benedict.

• Restaurant Review: Southern Proper [BM]
• Wine Shrine [IB]
• Brothers Restaurant, Brookline [Dig Boston]