Four Stars for the Table
Jolyon Helterman reviews the Table at Season to Taste for Boston Magazine. Carl Dooley’s small tasting menu operation debuted in early 2016, and now, at a time where small plates dominate the landscape, Helterman insists the tasting menu is not dead, thanks in part to the Table, which he gives the highest of honors: four stars out of four, “extraordinary.”
“Dooley’s nimble sequencing makes you think about meal pacing the way a Hitchcock film makes you ponder camera angle,” he writes.
One meal starts with raw oysters with fermented pineapple hot sauce and eases into parsnip-filled samosas that Helterman suggests would, in fact, fit in well on a modern small-plates menu. The meal also includes “smoldering” squid ink campanelle and “dreamy” salt cod ravioli.
“There are chefs out there who deploy every spell in the molecular-gastro playbook to ply the dazzlement Dooley musters with only an oven, a good potholder, and a bushel of Meyer lemons,” Helterman writes. That, plus the one-on-one service from “the first-string team,” including baker and pastry chef Mary Edinger, makes the experience “feel less like a dinner out than a dinner party at someone’s home.”
The Old Guard of Allston Drinking
Marc Hurwitz reviews Deep Ellum in Allston for the Dig this week, visiting an old member of the bar class that continually serves quality beer and cocktails. “This Cambridge Street establishment is in some ways your classic gastropub that’s worthy of the title, and one that’s more unpretentious and unassuming than some of the newer options out there,” he writes. The fairly short beer list is packed with winners, according to Hurwitz, while cocktails include Negronis, mai tais, Manhattans, and more. As for food, the menu is small with several highlights, from a rich poutine with duck gravy to a house sausage plate, a “hefty” burger, a Reuben, and “an excellent version of macaroni and cheese” that changes seasonally.