Critic Declares ‘Split Verdict’ on a Popular Group’s New Taqueria-and-Barbecue-Joint

Eat the Tacos; Skip the Barbecue

The Improper Bostonian’s MC Slim JB visits El Rincón de Moody’s in Waltham — the newest piece of the Moody’s Delicatessen empire — for some tacos, finding that chef Joshua Smith’s “take on Mexican fare soars on the back of impeccable ingredients, starting with complimentary chips and a bright, smooth tomato salsa.” But while Smith is perhaps best known for his command of meat, the barbecue portion of El Rincón de Moody’s doesn’t quite live up to expectations. “Save your BBQ calories and dollars for elsewhere,” Slim recommends, noting “a few too many busts from a chef who rarely misses the mark elsewhere,” especially on the smoked brisket (“alternately inedibly hard or overly fatty”) and the pork ribs (“dreadfully mushy.”) Instead, try all of the “amazing” tacos, including a barbacoa with slow-cooked Wagyu beef, a “smooth, tangy-hot morita sauce,” and radishes.

“Wow” Indeed

A promotional video about Boston’s food scene by Iceland’s Wow Air takes a stab at recommending places to eat around Boston, with mixed results. The video puts an emphasis on history and whether things are worthy of Instagram, which would perhaps be fine were there not some blatant errors. The most egregious fall toward the end of the video, when the hosts pay a visit to Stephi’s, “on the Southside” — except that Stephi’s, the Southie or South Boston restaurant, closed in June, and they’re actually at Moonshine 152 around the corner. The hosts praise some classic menu items at the restaurant, which is still definitely not Stephi’s, including chicken and waffles. The video even includes a clip of Moonshine 152 chef and owner Asia Mei, referring to her as “Steph,” somehow implying she’s the owner of Stephi’s. (Hey, at least they don’t call her a “fierce Southie.”)

Feast at a Cheese Shop

While the Boston Globe doesn’t have a starred review out this week, Kara Baskin shares her thoughts on what to eat at the “reliable” and “resilient” Cheese Shop in Concord, a shop that “weaves [a] rare pastoral spell.” For a place that focuses on retail, particularly in the cheese department, its sandwiches are worthy of a second look. Options displayed on a dry-erase board include turkey with provolone and cranberry relish on a baguette, or Rosemary’s Baby, with ham, cheese, and lettuce on a balsamic-glazed baguette. The sandwiches are priced by weight, and there are customizable options as well. Don’t be embarrassed to get creative — they’ve seen it all.

• Alto y Bajo [IB]
• WOW Air Video [FB]
• What Is She Having? Anything She Wants at the Cheese Shop in Concord [BG]