Our Fathers’ Pastrami Sandwich Almost Measures up to the One at Katz’s Deli, Says Critic

“Exceptional” Pastrami

Jolyon Helterman reviews Our Fathers in Allston for Boston Magazine, first calling attention to an “exceptional” pastrami sandwich that he measures up against the one at the famed Katz’s Deli in New York. (Katz’s wins by a hair, but Helterman finds it “pretty damned exhilarating” to find pastrami of this caliber in Boston.) The Allston restaurant is more than just a deli, though: It can also be classified as a gin bar, meze stall, and modern Israeli neighborhood bistro, Helterman writes. Some highlights include “creamy” labne amplified by a “fiery green schug”; a “flawless” octopus dish with smoky baba ghanoush; and a sirloin with rapini-peanut pesto. Overall, Helterman rates the restaurant two stars out of four, “good.”

“Special Occasion Extravaganza”

The Improper Bostonian’s MC Slim JB visits the newly minted Talulla in Cambridge and finds “understated charm,” a vast 100-plus bottle wine list, and carefully crafted cocktails. The food makes an impression from the start, he writes, with house-made sourdough, a delicately plated scallop appetizer, and a lively green salad. For main dishes, Talulla offers dishes such as a lamb loin with potato puree and cavatelli with braised lamb. Slim calls out the black bass — a “meaty skin-on fillet” — for its ability to “draw out camera phones.” Desserts also stun, with the huckleberry currant cobbler stealing the show: It’s served in a cast-iron skillet and topped with hazelnut ice cream. Slim calls the tasting menu with wine pairings a “special occasion extravaganza,” especially praising the squid dish and lamb belly with black garlic.

• Restaurant Review: Our Fathers [BM]
• Beautiful Baby [IB]