Spoke Wine Bar is back.
One of the most devastating closures of 2016 came at the end of the year: Spoke Wine Bar (89 Holland St., Davis Square, Somerville) said goodbye on December 22, with owner Felisha “Flea” Foster citing the difficulties of trying to run the restaurant from afar while dealing with serious health issues. In its nearly four-year span, Spoke became a neighborhood haunt and an industry gem, charming diners with its excellent wine selection and cozy ambience, not to mention the delightful small plates from chef John daSilva, an alum of No. 9 Park.
When Foster announced the closure, she expressed hope that someone in the industry would buy Spoke and continue what she and her team started — and that’s what’s happening. As reported in April, former Spoke bartender Mary Kurth is behind the new Spoke. (As with the original Spoke, co-owner Dave Jick — of Dave’s Fresh Pasta next door — is “a partner, but not a principal decision-maker” in Spoke, per Boston Magazine.)
Eric Frier (Toro, Coppa, Ribelle) and Daniel Rodriguez (Uni, Clio) are in the kitchen, and Liz Mann, who was previously Spoke’s assistant wine buyer, has returned as wine buyer, continuing to focus on small producers and biodynamic wines.
As the restaurant’s website states, the team is serving up “New American small plates with the help of farmers and friends.” The opening menu includes dishes such as asparagus with ham mayo, green garlic, and puffed wild rice; nettle gnocchi with braised romaine, anchovy, and parmesan; rotating cheese and charcuterie selections; and chocolate mousse with sassafras ice cream, green chartreuse, and tarragon.
Oh, and plenty of morels:
While the beverage focus is on wine, there’s also a rotating selection of beers on draft and in bottles, along with a cocktail list.
Spoke quietly reopened to the public yesterday and is operating from 5:30 to midnight Tuesday through Thursday and 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday (with the kitchen open until 11). Reservations preferred, especially in these early days, but you can always try walking in. Call (617) 718-9463.