Welcome back to Week in Reviews, a glimpse into what Boston’s professional restaurant critics are eating and writing.
“Guaranteed to Launch a Few Thousand Successful First Dates”
From North African to Spanish, Charlestown mainstay Tangierino has recently been reinvented as Madera 83, with Townsman alum Matthew Leddy coming onboard as chef. MC Slim JB reviews it for The Improper Bostonian, eating a “small plates feast” that starts off with jamon serrano as a “classic kickoff” before moving into dishes like croquetas de setas, which “inspire second orders.” The cold vegetables plates don’t fare quite as well; the alcachofas asadas (roasted marinated artichokes with sherry labneh), for example, have a muted flavor due to “straight-from-the-fridge coldness.” But he finds that things pick up again as the hot dishes come out, such as sardinas a la parrilla, “one perfect, plump, whole grilled sardine,” and mejillones, “a nice mess of Maine mussels.” For dessert, try the “winning” arroz con leche.
Can’t-Miss Juicy Buns
For Dig Boston, Marc Hurwitz writes up a “first look” at the fairly new Chiharu Sushi & Noodle in Brookline, finding that it “has the makings of a real winner.” The Chiharu team comes from now-shuttered spots like May’s Cafe (Allston), Haru (Back Bay), and New Taste of Asia (Brookline). Hurwitz finds the sushi, including a spicy tuna roll and a California roll, to be “well-presented and having very fresh-tasting ingredients,” while the noodle dishes include “an outstanding spicy noodle soup.” He also rates the steamed juicy pork buns as “a can’t-miss item.”