Adam Ross, pastry chef at Deadhorse Hill
"Sourdough starter. Most people don't think of it in any context outside of bread-making, but it can be incredibly versatile and adds an interesting and unique flavor to any number of pastries and desserts. Try a sourdough pate brisee; you'll be amazed at the flakiness and depth of flavor it has!"
Alex Bonnefoi, pastry chef at Strip by Strega
"Olive oil is underrated because it opens so many doors for creative additions or new flavors, such as strawberry vinaigrette and olive oil ice cream."
Ben Dorn, pastry chef at Saltbox Kitchen
"I think the most underrated dessert ingredient is lard. Over time it has become an undesirable four-letter word, but in fact it has many benefits that people either don’t know about or choose to overlook. For one, it has 20% less saturated fat than butter and none of the trans fats that shortening has. Using lard will also result in a flakier pie crust than using butter alone. Lastly, with the spotlight brought to sustainability and employing sustainable practices, using lard ensures that you are using every part of the animal."
Carla Pallotta, co-owner of Nebo (and head of the dessert program)
"I would say salt. Salt enhances spices, and the contrast makes the dessert taste sweeter without the added sugar."
Dave Becker, chef/owner of Sweet Basil and Juniper
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"Salt. I like savory in my desserts. Maybe to a fault. Some level of burnt too. Overly toasted nuts or the past-caramelized sugar on a crust."
Hannah Lurier, executive pastry chef at Alta Strada Wellesley
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"I think the most underrated dessert ingredient is butter. Butter is an ingredient that can be very mysterious. Take tart dough as an example: Depending on how large the butter chunks are cut into the flour determines how flaky and tender your crust will be."
Jamie Bissonnette, chef/owner of Little Donkey, Coppa, and Toro
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"Coconut milk. I love the balance it adds to sauces and what you can do with it."
Jenn Harvey, bar manager at Temple Bar (formerly a pastry chef at Stix)
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"Give me a dessert made with almond paste/marzipan any day of the week. When I was little, I used to sneak it out of the cupboard and eat it straight from the tube; my mom was not a fan of that move. Most people use it strictly for croissants/Danishes, but for cookies and cakes, with the right recipe, it leaves the treat so moist and sweet."
Jesse Jackson, III, executive pastry chef at No.9 Park
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"The most underrated ingredient is by far vanilla! Many people view vanilla as just "plain" flavoring, but it is anything but that. Here at No.9 Park, I purchase vanilla beans from Uganda as well as from Indonesia. Ugandan beans have more of a full-bodied and robust flavor, and Indonesian beans give off deep woody flavors. One scoop of Ugandan vanilla bean ice cream is never enough!"
Katie Gordon, pastry chef at Trade
"Cardamom. Beautiful flavor profile and adds a nice touch to cookies."
Kenny Hoshino, pastry chef at Alden & Harlow and Waypoint
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"The most underrated ingredient in desserts is salt. Adding salt can really enhance the flavor, sharpness, and even sweetness of the dessert — especially with desserts that have chocolate, nuts, or fruit."
Kevin Walsh, chef/owner of Tapestry
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"Vegetables. I have created great desserts using parsnips, squash, salsify, and cucumbers."
Laura Campagna, former pastry cook at Tamo Bistro & Bar
"Savory ingredients. Adding an herb, for example, can brighten a sweet dish, and most people avoid doing so."
Lauren Kroesser, pastry chef at Island Creek Oyster Bar
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"The most underrated dessert ingredient is flaky sea salt. I put it on everything, especially chocolate. It does wonders to make flavors pop and to balance out sweet pastries, and it also adds texture."
Lilah Rogoff, pastry chef at Catalyst
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"The most underrated dessert ingredient is salt. It is a flavor enhancer, so it actually highlights sweetness, but it balances it too. Everyone loves desserts that are sweet and salty."
Marissa Rossi, executive pastry chef at Puritan & Co.
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"I am currently slightly obsessed with mushrooms. I think the earthiness goes really well with chocolate. I just put a dish on Puritan's dessert menu with dried porcini powder."
Nathan Kibarian, pastry chef at Bastille Kitchen
"Mahleb. It’s the seed of the St. Lucy cherry that grows around the Mediterranean. It has wonderful aromatic properties and lends well to breads and pastries. Its flavor is earthy yet subtly sweet with a hint of almonds and cherries. I use it in a lot of breads and cookies around the holidays; it’s definitely a treat."
Rachel Gibeley, pastry chef at Rosebud American Kitchen and Bar
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"I love using lavender and rose in my baking. I know they are often associated with beauty/bath products, but they're amazing in desserts when used in the right quantities."
Rae Murphy, pastry chef at Porto
"A high quality cocoa powder. A poor quality cocoa powder is so evident in the final product — that unmistakable taste of chalk. A nice cocoa powder is smooth, rich, and intense."
Robert Differ, pastry chef at Bar Boulud
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"Nut paste — hazelnut and macadamia, especially. Nut paste is a multipurpose ingredient. It can be used in mousse or as a sauce; it is just so versatile."
Main image: Shutterstock/Jiri Hera