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Week in Reviews

 bancroft.jpgDevra First files her latest Globe review on The Bancroft out in Burlington, a steakhouse helmed by Mario Capone, a longtime alum of Lydia Shire's establishments. In the "excellent" steak tartare, "[t]he meat tastes so fresh it's hard not to feel sad for the cow, whose presence still seems palpable." The Black Angus bone-in filet is "tender as can be, but also incredibly flavorful," and steaks appear "with a glorious charred crust, perfectly cooked." She grants it three stars out of four. [BG]
[Photo: Official Site]