Throughout the year, Restaurant Editor Bill Addison will travel the country to chronicle what's happening in America's dining scene and to formulate his list of the essential 38 restaurants in America. Follow his progress in this travelogue/review series, The Road to the 38, and check back at the end of the year to find out which restaurants made the cut.
Seafood lovers have been eating freshly shucked bivalves in Boston restaurants for two hundred years: Union Oyster House (originally called the Atwood & Bacon Oyster House) has been in operation near Faneuil Hall Marketplace since 1826. These days, the city's modern raw bars serve New England specialties alongside dishes laced with global flavors. I recently bellied up to two of the most popular seafood counters in Boston.