Devra First drops a single star out of four ("fair") on The Merchant in her latest Globe review. "Hint: Gesturing to one's own body parts when explaining where on the cow the beef comes from is not appetizing," she writes, aimed at a "clueless" server. If you go, stick with the burger ("a beaut") or the "earthy" farro pasta.
[Photo: The Merchant/Katie Chudy]
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