For the Globe, Devra First heads out to Newton Highlands to visit 51 Lincoln in the wake of chef/owner Jeffrey Fournier releasing a mission statement about food as art, the customer not always being right, and the importance of seasonality and sustainability. "I respect the hell out of it," writes First of Fournier's renewed focus. "That doesn't mean I don't find 51 Lincoln's food to be frequently baffling." In the end, it earns one-and-a-half stars out of four, somewhere between "fair" and "good."
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