State Park Takes "'So Bad It's Good' to New Heights"

The Improper Bostonian's Donna Garlough places State Park in "so bad it's good" territory, alluding to the apparent influences of a "mid-'80s roller-rink menu" and "someone's potluck menu in 1983" on its offerings. Her favorite options include the "soupy" Luxardo cherry float, the "pretty darn delicious" Memphis BBQ spaghetti, and the "juicy" fried chicken. The State Park cocktail, on the other hand, pleases less — it tastes "like carbonated tile cleaner." [TIB]

Devra First provides a Globe "quick bite" on Fort Point's brand new Pastoral, which aims to serve "an authentic taste of Naples." The ambiance is "industrial, with warm touches," and — as so many reviews feel obligated to point out nowadays — there are plenty of "glasses with thick black frames" and staffers wearing "checked button-downs." If you're not there for the pizza, First recommends the radiatori with tomato and milk-braised veal, rigatoni Bolognese, or artichokes with mint and orange. There's also a beer cocktail that "tastes like a grown-up's cherry Coke." [BG]

Also in the Globe, there's a "Cheap Eats" review by Ellen Bhang on BurgerFi, a BU-area restaurant that serves as the first local outpost of a Florida chain aiming for the "burgerfication" of the nation. She finds a burger "delicious" but notes not to skip the sides. The onion ring/French fry combo provides "some of the best we've had." [BG]

Serious Eats' Liz Bomze checks out the "anything but traditional" hand-pulled biang biang noodles at Mei Mei. The preparations change with the seasons but are seemingly always "tasty." Right now, there's "a play on cacio e pepe" and a vegetarian concoction that features roasted vegetables. Bomze gives an edge to the hand-pulled noodles at Gene's Chinese Flatbread Cafe, but given Gene's inconvenient hours, Mei Mei's version is a "serviceable" alternative. [SE]

Boston Magazine's Christopher Hughes reminds the world that backbar, which is hidden down an alley in Somerville's Union Square, is worth finding. The reasons are many, but he narrows it down to five specifics, from the daily "genius hours" with free wifi to the fat-washed spirits, which are made with leftover meat drippings from Journeyman next door. [BM]