Two-and-a-Half Stars for Bondir Concord and More

For her weekly Globe review, Devra First visits the recently-opened Concord sequel to Cambridge's Bondir. "There are many lovely things to eat," from the bread (it "always amazes") and pasta ("a strength") to the black truffles (shaved by a "generous hand.") But while it's "the best thing to happen to Concord-area dining in some time," it is lacking the "element of surprise" and "doesn't feel quite as magical" as the original location. Still, Bondir "stands on its own in Concord, with an extremely convivial bar scene, a highly personalized experience, and food that is often wonderful, if not always magical." Two-and-a-half stars out of four. [BG]

Also for the Globe, Kara Baskin provides a quick look at Sportello, which has recently turned five and eliminated its bakery section to focus on "small plates, soups, pastas, and Italian wines served from a happy open kitchen." The scene is "Monk's Cafe from 'Seinfeld' as imagined by John Cheever" with "a lot of ascots, cashmere, and shaved receding hairlines." Things to eat include "tomato soup spiked with chili flakes" and "rich slabs of duck liver crostini." [BG]

The brand new Alden & Harlow gets a visit from Luke O'Neil, reviewing the bar for his "Thursty" column in the Metro. It "has hit upon the exact formula [he] look[s] for in a regular spot, the atmosphere, menu and cocktail program meeting in perfect harmony." While he focuses on the beverage program, he notes a couple "must-haves" from the food menu: pickled corn pancakes with buttermilk, maple, and shishitos and chicken-fried rabbit with apple, bleu cheese, and chili oil. As for the drinks, there are plenty that are "adventurous-sounding but eminently drinkable." [Metro]

For Dig Boston, Jennifer Janiak tracks down the vaguely-named InBoston on Bedford St., a recently-opened Korean fried chicken shop that also has tacos (stuffed with Korean fried chicken). "The menu, while small, makes up for it with plenty of flavor." For a "burst of heat," you want the spicy chicken taco, which "packs the most punch." [Dig]