The new location of Bondir is "the best thing to happen to Concord-area dining in some time," writes Devra First in her latest review for the Globe, but "it doesn't feel quite as magical" as the original Cambridge location. On the plus side, "the bread always amazes," and "pasta is a strength." But the cooking "isn't always as exact as one would wish," with a "sweaty" oyster "of indeterminate temperature" and a "dull" venison and grits dish. Two-and-a-half stars out of four. [BG]
Filed under:
Loading comments...