Three Stars for Oleana in Globe Re-review

The Globe's Devra First has re-reviewed Ana Sortun's 12-year-old Oleana and gives the "iconic" Cambridge Mediterranean mainstay three out of four stars. Deviled eggs that "demand to be inhaled" are one of the small plates that represent "the main joy of eating at Oleana." Disappointed by inconsistency that made one dining companion call the restaurant "tired and wilty," she recommends ordering "anything with burrata" and eating outside as the "best ways around any sense of fatigue." First opines, "in a town where every good concept has its imitators, there is still nothing else quite like it." [BG]

In this week's Cheap Eats column, the Globe's Glenn Yoder visits Cambridge's cricket-themed bar Hit Wicket, finding a mix of good and bad. He notes the menu "hops around the globe, and the results are all over the map, too." An Australian meat pie is "pretty darn good" though "not quite as tasty as the hand-held wonders" at KO Pies. Vodka puri, a "nontraditional" vodka-filled street food, are "somehow both off-putting and enticing at the same time." [BG]

The varied seating arrangements at Somerville's The Independent are praised for giving the restaurant and bar its "chameleon quality" by the Globe's Benjamin Soloway. "Feebly portioned, runny ... mac and cheese falls flat," but "for a good burger or other stellar pub favorites," The Independent is "your best bet" in Union Square. A largely local list of 30 beers on tap is "the real star" of the bar program. [BG]

TR Street Food, the take-out lunch counter attached to Tavern Road, gets a mixed but mostly positive review from Richard Chudy in his Boston Magazine Man Food column. Za'atar chicken wings "are a letdown," lacking "crunch, seasoning, and originality." However, a lamb meatball sandwich on pita features the "downright sensational" taste of "gamey lamb flavor" and "is one of the better sandwiches I've had in recent memory." [BM]

Writing for the Metro, Luke O'Neil stops into Kenmore's just opened Fenmore American Bistro and calls it "a perfectly lovely, serviceable bar and restaurant." Without a full liquor license, O'Neil expects the Maluken replacement in the Hotel Buckminster to "excel at beer," and was disappointed to find they did not with "predictable domestic fair" on tap and "similarly unremarkable" bottled options. "Exceptionally friendly" service and the "comfortable room" still make it a better destination than the "touristy, over-sized beer halls around the corner." [Metro]