MC Slim JB Returns to Praise Bronwyn

MC Slim JB, formerly of the Phoenix, files his first published review since the shuttering of that paper. Now writing half of the reviews for the Improper, and apparently winning the right to not grant stars, no rating is needed to tell that Somerville's Bronwyn is a success in his eyes. Tim & Bronwyn Wiechmann's second restaurant "captures a lot of the soul of Mitteleuropean cuisine" and "well-versed" servers "have the friendly polish" to help diners navigate the menu. Best of the wursts for Slim: zungenblutwurst, a "deep-flavored, finely textured, crimson-toned" blood, tongue, and pork sausage and an "astonishing" venison pastrami. For mains, "heads will turn at the giant haxe, a two-pound behemoth of braised pork," which is "phenomenal in its slow-cooked simplicity." Slim also praises the "unexpectedly fine craft-cocktail program" and recommends the Zwei, an "herbally complex concoction" of genever, vermouth, kummel, and other ingredients. [Improper]

Writing for Boston Magazine, Corby Kummer walked into Boston Chops "with an admitted chip on [his] shoulder" over the loss of architecture from the failed Banq and Ginger Park restaurants in the South End space where chef Chris Coombs has opened his steak house. Kummer feels the kitchen "isn't consistent, particularly when it comes to beef" and recommends that those ordering steak go bone-in. The bone-in tenderloin was "so juicy, tender, and full of beef flavor that I had to start gnawing on the bone." However, hanger steak was "tough ... and had hardly any flavor at all," and a server-suggested rib-eye roll was "a very dull piece of beef." Like other reviewers, he finds his favorite items in steak house classic sides like the onion soup that ":showcases Coombs's strong interest in technique," or in offal like the "not to be missed" tongue "which resembles pastrami in both appearance and taste." Desserts are worth the caloric splurge, especially the "first non-cliched molten chocolate cake since Jean-George Vongerichten." [BM]

Globe food editor Sheryl Julian visits the newly remodeled Cafe Barada in North Cambridge and finds lots to love (as well as take home). Writing about the decades-old Lebanese restaurant for the Cheap Eats column, she is impressed by the size of the "gigantic and deliciously satisfying" roll-ups as well as the shish kebabs, which feature "almost too generous, giant bites of meat." A lentil and rice dish called mujederra "looks like a soupy brown dish you're sorry you ordered" but the "earthy, slightly hot, cumin-scented lentils ... [have] so many layers." [BG]

Barbecue and burger blogger PigTrip visited Trade in July and just posted his review of the burger. Initially drawn in by two things "Jody Adams and pancetta," he was disappointed the pancetta was not blended into the patty. The burger he ordered medium-rare came out "well-done and then some" and the "flavor wasn't anything special," though the accompanying fries were "very good." He enjoyed the pork lettuce wrap appetizers as well as his wife's salmon that "deliver[ed] crunch on the surface and an extremely tender and moist interior." [PigTrip]