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2.5-Star Transcendence at Bronwyn

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Photo: Chris Coe

Devra First finds plenty of strengths but some weaknesses too at Somerville's new German/Central European restaurant, Bronwyn, in her 2.5-star Globe review this week. "A meal at Bronwyn can truly be transcendent," writes First, "which makes the nontranscendent meals — when things tip out of balance, becoming too heavy and not quite seasoned enough — that much more disappointing." Some strengths: the "tender, rich" knodel is "like the world's best breakfast," while the sausages and "exceptional" beer list are the "cornerstones" of the restaurant. But the "perfectly cooked" jagerschnitzel on one visit is "greasy, underseasoned, and unremarkable" on the next. In the end, it's the beer and sausages that give provide the best reason to return, which First eyeing a repeat of "the lemon weisswurst and currywurst, and a Sunner Kolsch or two." [BG]

It's fortunate that Szechuan's Dumpling in Arlington produces "superb" dumplings, or the name would be somewhat of a let-down. For the Globe's Cheap Eats column, Catherine Smart bids readers "good luck" on "picking a favorite" dumpling, from the soup dumplings "just bursting with rich broth and tender meat" to the fried pork and chive dumplings with the "beautiful golden crust." All is not wonderful: "Dinner includes the unhappy revelation that the seafood dishes leave a lot to be desired." But there is plenty to love, and "attentive" service too, so "this is the kind of place for everyone to unabashedly dig in." [BG]

For Cambridge Day, Linda and Uri Guttman share their secret way of getting a taste of the North End without dealing with parking, prices, and the like. Vinny's Ristorante, aka Vinny's at Night, is hidden in the back of an Italian deli in East Somerville, but locals are well aware of its tasty existence. Above all, it's know for its portion sizes. "Very few finish the generous portions, and the staff is well equipped and experienced in packing up leftovers to go," write the Guttmans. The "extensive" menu features plenty of pasta as well as meats like lamb, rabbit, and even ostrich. The lamb osso buco is "delicious" and for dessert, the Tartufo is "flavorful and excellent." [Cambridge Day]

Bronwyn

255 Washington Street, , MA 02143 (617) 776-9900 Visit Website

Bronwyn

255 Washington St., Somerville, MA 02143

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