Three Stars Each for Fogo de Chão, Prezza

Brazilian chain Fogo de Chão gets three stars out of a possible five from B.N. Lee in The Improper Bostonian, which isn't too shabby for a meat-on-a-stick joint. The "circus of meat" benefits from some application of strategy, says Lee, who peppers the review with tips like asking for the minty house chimichurri sauce and hot sauce, saying "Both are only available by request and inject personality into the gastronomic march, which can turn into a slog as your belly becomes uncomfortably full." Lee also specifies "non-thrilling cuts on which you shouldn't waste stomach space," which includes bacon-wrapped chicken. [TIB]

James Reed gives three stars out of a possible four to the recently reopened Prezza in the latest Globe review. The North End restaurant was temporarily shuttered due to fire damage, and it looks "especially fresh" now. How's the service? Well, what's the best word to describe ideal service? That's right, it's "impeccable." The ravioli di ouvo continues to delight - as it has for years - though occasionally "good ideas fall victim to clumsy execution," as in some disappointing fried zucchini flowers. "Limoncello cheesecake is meant for people who claim they don't like cheesecake, this critic included." [BG]