Leather Banquettes Beckon at Boston Chops

If you've ever dreamt of eating steak in an old South End bank with ceilings more than 20 feet above you, now's your chance. Boston Chops opened Monday in the Penny Savings Bank space, which has previously housed the appropriately named Banq as well as Ginger Park. From the 2,000-bottle, glass-encased wine room to the deep maroon leather banquettes, Boston Chops strives to be seen as an "urban steak bistro," and the traditional beef-focused portion of the menu is amplified with a few less common additions.

For steak, there are "Top Chops & Steaks," cuts like the prime N.Y. strip and bone-in filet mignon, 14 ounces each. Diners can also choose from six cuts and seven sauces for steak frites, which comes with "generous" frites and greens. For people who go to the steakhouse but don't like steak, there are a few non-beef entrees: a pork chop, pan-roasted halibut, wild mushroom cavatelli, and some others.

But it's the "Rarely Celebrated" portion of the menu that deviates from a plain old steakhouse and shows off a bit of creativity from Executive Chef/Co-Owner Chris Coombs (dbar, Deauxave). From the machaca-braised cheeks with lime-pickled vegetables to the grilled, herb-marinated heart with bacon and mushrooms, there's a little something for more adventurous diners. Other intriguing dishes: poutine-style, twice-baked, "loaded" potato; pork belly mac and cheese; warm chocolate cake with black peppercorn ice cream.

With the aforementioned wine room (located prominently by the front entrance) and the 30-seat bar that dominates the left side of the restaurant, the beverage program is meticulously managed by Beverage Director/Sommelier Kate Moore, an alum of L'Espalier. The majority of the wine list features bottles not found elsewhere in Boston, and the cocktail list is made up of classics and signature creations by Moore. As for beer, the selection ranges from $3 PBR and Narragansett to 22-ounce bottles of locally-brewed Pretty Things.

Boston Chops is open for dinner from 5 PM to midnight seven days a week. The bar opens an hour earlier and closes and hour later.

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