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Sarma is a "truly special neighborhood restaurant" and earns three of four possible stars from the Globe's Devra First. Kibbeh ("usually hefty fried footballs of bulgur and meat") are made with red lentils and crab, resulting in "wonderfully light patties." Even a seven-layer hummus — a dish that sounds like a "potluck appetizer" — is "lively and bold" in the hands of chef-proprietors Ana Sortun and Cassie Piuma. The service is that of a "much fancier restaurant." [BG]
Luke O'Neil reviews the bar at Sarma, where small plates of food are "meant to be shared," but when it comes to sharing one of Vikram Hegde's "remarkable" cocktails, "you might be reluctant to hand it over." The Metro writer particularly enjoyed the "bright, clean" Hippodrome, made with rhum Agricole, sage, lime, and mastic (a resin used similarly to vanilla). For an aperitif, O'Neil recommends the Punt e Mes based Cane Salata ̬ "exceptionally tart and dry, in the best way." [Metro]
In the Globe's Cheap Eats column, editor Sheryl Julian has good things to say about Kenmore's Fenmore American Bistro, declaring it a "welcome" option for those who can't afford the more expensive options in the Square. Breakfast "needs work," but lunch and dinner offerings such as burgers and fish and chips shows that chef Jose Rivera "is thinking." Skip the "underdone pizza-style" Fenway flatbread and get the seasonal dessert, a "lovely" sticky toffee pudding. "This is Applebee's with better ingredients," says Julian's friend, with whom she does not disagree. [BG]
The "little slice of '60s-psychedelia," that is the Harborside Lounge was the subject of another one of Luke O'Neil's bar-review columns for the Metro. Drinks mostly take their inspiration from the "cocktailocaust era of the turn of millenium," and their version of a Dubliner includes cranberry juice ("for some insane reason"). At least a Manhattan and Negroni were "perfectly well made" by a "perfectly attentive barman." Compared to the "steak-and-cheese pubs" in the Financial District, this hotel bar is a "fine option for a drink." [Metro]