"A good steak is forever" says Devra First in her three (of four) star Globe review of the three-decade-old Grill 23. Steaks such as the Kobe cap ("extraordinary, almost buttery") make up for "weaknesses" in side dishes (tater tots that "taste like cardboard"). First says a meal at Grill 23 leaves one "fatter, poorer, possibly on the road to gout, but happy." [BG]
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