Two Globe Stars for "Essential Neighborhood Spot" Cook

Devra First notes in her two of four star review of Cook in Newtonville that chef/owner Paul Turano's Tryst in Arlington is "a neighborhood staple," and she believes "Cook is quickly becoming one too." The Globe critic enjoys the "neat little jig" the menu makes, offering both casual bar and bistro food. While Cook is not (and does not try to be) a "destination restaurant," it is an "essential neighborhood spot." Get the kale salad with Brussels sprouts, Parmesan, and verjus for a "wonderfully balanced," "tart and rich and addictive" salad. Flatbreads have "great toppings," though the crust on them "has less character." [BG]

Writing Boston Magazine's, Night Owl column Richard Chudy reviews Bronwyn's "short and sweet" late-night menu. A house-made Chicago-style hot dog "is a delicate accomplishment" with a "proper snap" even if the filling is "dry and over-worked." Depending on which paragraph one reads, late night at Bronwyn is either "hitting all of the right notes" or "hits most of the right notes." Either way, there are good notes. Or maybe there are no notes at all, as Chudy has since tweeted that Bronwyn may no longer be offering the late night menu. [BM]

Wanting to keep it to herself, Globe food editor Sheryl Julian is "almost hesitant" to file a Cheap Eats column on Belmont's 20-seat Seta's Cafe. She enjoyed the "heightened sense of sophistication" of the Mediterranean / Armenian cafe, wowed by the "care and thoughtfulness" going into each plate. Recommended: a "delightful" fattoush salad with lemon-sumac vinaigrette, and a rotisserie chicken (roasted to "golden succulence") dinner that comes with "wonderful" fries. [BG]

Richard Chudy, this time writing Boston Magazine's Man Food column, finds Gene's Chinese Flatbread Cafe in Downtown Crossing to be "a gem in every sense of the word." A dish comprised of hand-pulled biang biang noodles, garlic, and chili is made with "the perfect noodle and, consequently, [is] the perfect noodle dish." "Each bite will knock you back." [BM]

UPDATE: Bronwyn confirms, via Twitter, that they are no longer offering a late-night menu. The only notes here are that of a sad trombone.