So far Kendall Square newcomer West Bridge has had a notably positive run in the reviews. The Improper Bostonian's B.N. Lee gave it four out of five stars, the Globe's Devra First doled out three and a half out of four stars, and for what was until recently STUFF, MC Slim JB sure liked that egg in a jar. Now Corby Kummer weighs in for Boston Magazine, and so far he's the least enthused, though he's still pretty enthused.
For starters, there's the review's subheading, which declares that West Bridge "has potential in spades, but feels incomplete." And while he describes this as "a charming place that's doing a good deal of skilled cooking," he also says "You have to work to hear the people at your table" due to the noise level. Prices and service compare unfavorably to Aquitane, and the "rustic, almost thrown together" vibe does a disservice: "the chef's obvious skill seems lost in the incomplete, almost-there feeling of so many of the dishes." Kummer's recommendation: "stick with salads, small plates, and a dessert or two." [BM]
Ellen Bhang examines the virtues of Izzy's Restaurant & Sub Shop in Cambridge for the Globe's latest Cheap Eats column. "If you're not a regular here, you'll be treated like one." That neighborhood feel makes as much of an impression as the food, but the latter's good, too. A companion says the goat "is the most tender and flavorful he has had" and even the rice is "truly special." [BG]
Brookline's Zenna Noodle Bar "didn't quite reach the greatness" Boston's Hidden Restaurants has experienced elsewhere (Pho So 1, Pho 2000), but the food is "impressive" the atmosphere is "nice," service is "good" and the prices "reasonable." Sounds like it won't blow your mind, but Zenna "does put out some very good dishes on both the Vietnamese side and the Thai side." [BHR]
"The Asian burrito has rolled into town" says Wei-Huan Chen in The Phoenix's On the Cheap treatment of Wrapmi in Chinatown. "But it's no new concept," adds Chen. Still, "innovation is always a pleasant surprise" in this part of town, and the texture of the spicy chicken roll is "delightfully complex, especially with the sweet, soft crepe." [TP]