MC Slim JB's Final STUFF Review Tackles Kitchen

MC Slim JB's review of South End newcomer Kitchen in STUFF will be his last for this publication, at least as it is currently known and before it is soon smooshed together with the Boston Phoenix. As with all of his STUFF reviews, this one hinges on one representative dish, which in this case is mock turtle soup. "The result here is gorgeous, with beef cheek providing a fattiness and deep flavor akin to short ribs, sliced tongue echoing the texture of reptile meat, and carrots and peas lending a homey accent." Though historically inspired dishes such as these are sort of Kitchen's thing, Slim notes that "a few lighter gems" could bring in "young whippersnappers accustomed to a more modern style." [STUFF]

The long-awaited Yakitori Zai gets its first professional review from Globe restaurant critic Devra First. The sushi-less South End restaurant "resembles a restaurant one might actually find in Japan." First likes the momo negima (skewers of chicken thigh and "scallion-like" negi) so much that she busts out some italics: "it tastes right." Prices run high and the odd dish is "bland" or "dull," but she reiterates: "It's that rare thing in Boston — a restaurant one might actually find in Japan." Two and a half stars. [BG]

Corby Kummer describes the offerings at Strip-T's in Watertown as "The most unexpectedly dazzling food I've had in years" in his latest Boston Magazine review. And that's not the only good thing going: "The restaurant would be worth visiting just for the service." But Corby, what's the main drawback? "The main drawback of dining here is a big one—the noise." But wouldn't a snazzier space kind of ruin the whole lord of the food nerds thing? "Then again, Maslow and his staff are performing to such a high level that it's hard to know whether to wish them grander or more central quarters." [BM]

Wonder no longer at the construction of the savory pies at KO Pies at the Shipyard in East Boston. Boston's Hidden Restaurants reports: "Each pie at KO Pies is five inches in diameter, with fillings being enclosed by a dense shortcrust base and an airy puff pastry on top." Scup's in the Harbour, which was here before, left big shoes to fill in the department of worthwhile, alternatively located dining, but fear not: "Much like Scup's, KO Pies at the Shipyard is an offbeat and eclectic dining spot that is an instant Boston treasure." [BHR]