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Richard Chudy visits the relatively new food truck Mei Mei Street Kitchen for Boston Magazine's Man Food column, praising the Double Awesome, "two poached-and-fried eggs, a summer greens pesto, and extra sharp cheddar cheese—all served inside a massive scallion pancake of course, just to gild the lily a bit more." Less impressive was the bone marrow fried rice, in which the "meaty fragrance and punch of bone marrow is suspiciously absent all around." But after finishing with the pate cone, a "liver-y delight," Chudy concludes that "sooner rather than later the Mei Mei food truck will be a major force to be reckoned with." [Chowder]
"The pies are still the knockout punch" at KO Catering and Pies' new outpost in East Boston, KO at the Shipyard, writes Glenn Yoder for the Globe. On the new location's expanded menu, Yoder praises the Thai-style fishcakes and chicken pita sandwich but finds the whitefish sandwich weighed down by too much tartar sauce and iceberg lettuce. Yoder checks in with Globe colleague Yvonne Abraham, a native of Australia, who "would still seek out KO" even if she and it were in Australia, surrounded by plenty of other meat pies. [BG]
MC Slim JB is ruing the fact that it took him more than a year to get to JP's Tres Gatos. For STUFF Magazine, he praises the Spanish restaurant for "taking a very traditional approach to some dishes, getting creative with others, and executing both styles with grace and aplomb." Pepitas, for example, are not commonly served in Madrid, but they're "a classy update on beer nuts, encouraging even faster downing of the crisp, easy-drinking, wallet-friendly Ivison fino sherry." On the more traditional side, the tortilla Española, so often overstated at other restaurants, has a certain "understated esthetic" here that extends to the decor and service. [STUFF]
Devra First bestows two stars on Todd English's newly re-opened Olives in Charlestown, coming down hard on cold, mediocre dishes, including "artichokes prepared in a broth that tastes like kitchen scraps and dishwater." She finds the food to be better on subsequent visits, when English is not present. Despite many missteps, Olives isn't all bad, though: "Right now, it is just what it’s meant to be: a bustling, lively neighborhood restaurant that serves as a social hub for those who live nearby." [BG]