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Robert Nadeau Drops Three Stars on Moksa

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Photo: Dominic Casserly

Boston Phoenix restaurant critic Robert Nadeau gives Moksa a hearty three out of four stars. He doesn't miss the pork in a vegan order of edamame potstickers, and his "personal favorite brassica of all time" puts the kai lan in a bowl of mushroom chow fun kai lan. Some "racquetball-size" Silk Road lamb meatballs are "economical" but economical on the tongue as well, being "surprisingly non-descript in flavor." The "forbiddingly odd" appearance "doesn't make me salivate," but "our server made good recommendations and brought out an odd selection of dishes in a coherent order." Despite giving the restaurant a high score, Nadeau seems underwhelmed by the same lack of inspirational flavors described by many visitors to Moksa. [BP]

Returning to the Phoenix's On the Cheap column, MC Slim JB sings the praises of the newish China King in Chinatown. The restaurant comes from the owners of the departed but still legendary King Fung Garden and, according to Slim, does the legend of its predecessor no harm. The kitchen excels at "hand-making beautiful things with Northern China's staple of wheat flour," including noodles and dumpling exoskeletons. Peking raviolis avoid a common pitfall, meriting the coveted adjective "ungreasy." It's all good, but the "crowning glory is doubtless its traditional three-course rendition of Peking duck," which includes stuffing your own hand-held flatbreads, stir fry, and soup, the latter being "a delicate way to fill in the corners of your stomach." And here's the kicker: "This is easily one of the best and most delicious deals in Chinatown, if not the city." [BP]

Tiny Urban Kitchen reviews Shabu Ya in Harvard Square, which "seems to be filled with Asians." The presentation is lovely, but TUK is "not particularly impressed with the quality of the produce." Wagyu beef from Oregon is "worth skipping," though the "freebies" that accompany the suntofu are "solid." Most of the sushi "had virtually no flavor and were reasonably bland." The verdict? You can do better. [Tiny Urban Kitchen]

Get a headache just from reading about the chocolate brunch at Cafe Fleuri by Beantown Baker. "There were SO many chocolate dishes," including truffles, crepes, cakes, layer cakes, cookies, muffins, cotton candy (which does not appear to be chocolate), mousses, creme brulee, cannoli, ice cream sundaes, "chocolate break pudding" [sic], "eclaries" [sic] and, incredibly, more. "My first plate included some chocolate covered strawberries, a chocolate whoopie pie, flourless chocolate layer cake, almond cookies, mini lemon meringue tart, banana cream tartlet topped off with a meringue and garnished with a piece of bacon, and finally a gruyere tart topped with some dark chocolate. And of course "It wouldn't be much of a chocolate brunch without some chocolate martinis!" As a palate cleanser, there are potato chips. As a reader, the most appealing mention is that of a glass of water. [BB]

Cafe Fleuri

250 Franklin Street, Boston, MA 02110 617 956 8751

Moksa

450 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA

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