Robert Nadeau Gives Pho Hoa Four Stars

In the latest Boston Phoenix, restaurant critic Robert Nadeau gives Pho Hoa in Dorchester the maximum four stars. But all is not perfect here. He describes an order of chicken skewers as lacking the flavor or accompanying dip of a Thai or Malaysian satay but chalks it up as "a near negative." The broth in the pho is good but not as good the original Pho Pasteur or at Pho Pascal. Furthermore, though cha gio (fried egg roll) "can be the crispest in the universe," here it was "rather over-wrapped and stodgy." [BP]

For the Globe's Cheap Eats column, Lane Turner writes about One of the Kind in the food court of the Hong Kong Supermarket (formerly the Super 88) in Allston. Lane's wife, who is from the Hebei province, vouches for the authenticity of the noodles hen didao. The chef responds saying that he uses no bottled sauces (really, even soy?). Lane declares the dumplings as good as those he's had "from the little dumpling house" in Beijing and a dish of meat ball in hot pot "transports me back to all the little mom-and-pop restaurants I’ve ever eaten at in China." [BG]

For DigBoston, Kathrin Havrilla reviews Orinoco in Harvard Square, the newest of the restaurant's three locations. The casual atmosphere is enhanced by "a pleasant patois of languages" that "peppers forth from the kitchen area." The decor is "lively" but not "garish" though "one less table here and there would free up a little elbow room." Arepas are a "crispy, dense envelope for stuffing ranging from guayanés cheese to grilled chorizo" and the licensing board happens to drop by and test out the emergency lights. [DB]

Inspired by a new lineup of drinks, Rachel Kossman pays Towne Stove & Spirits a visit for Boston.com's BostoNite column. After apologies for bad photos due to the ambient lighting, Kossman praises The Cucumber Rose - "perfectly cucumber-y with a slight hint of rosemary and just enough carbonation to give it an edge" - and The Towne Lemonade with its fresh blueberries. A Roman Candle and Ginger Flower are good but not as good as The Cucumber Rose (the winner), and drinks "weren't as well made on weekend nights" but were overall worth the $14 a pop. [Boston.com]