Two Stars for Belly Wine Bar

Belly Wine Bar in Kendall Square scores two stars out of a possible four from Dan Zedek, filling in for Devra First at the Globe. Belly features "Simple things, done well," says Zedek. Someone in his crew who doesn't like chicken liver likes the chicken liver mousse, and a "Madrid-born friend" approves of the Jamon Iberico. But there is no one to come to the rescue of dry rabbit rillettes or "merely good" cured salmon. [BG]

For Boston Magazine, Brittany Jasnoff assesses the dinner menu, introduced in June, at Sugar Baking Co. in Roslindale. She wonders if the restaurant, which is better known for breakfast and lunch, can hack it for an evening meal, and the answer appears to be not really. "Some of the dishes are thoughtfully prepared, while others seem to be the product of a kitchen still finding its footing." There's not enough of the namesake in crab cakes, the steak component of steak frites is tough, and lobster mac n' cheese is "a flat-out failure." However baked goods "shine." [BM]

Dishes are "well-prepared" and portions are generous at Mi Salvador & Mexicano Restaurant in Chelsea, the focus of the Globe's latest Cheap Eats column by Ellen Bhang. The vivid decor is matched by the "bright vermillion hue" of the pozole and mondongo. Though chiles rellenos are slightly oversalted, "We're enamored with the tamales Salvadoreno ($1.85), a tender savory bundle of corn masa stuffed with potato and chicken, steamed in a dark green banana leaf." [BG]

Café Beirut is the subject of The Phoenix's latest On The Cheap column, in which Luke Pyenson deems the fried cauliflower, okra and eggplants sandwiches "all fantastic." Specials like lamb kefta "show off chef/partner Ali Hachem's serious skill." [TP]