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Newcomer City Landing Earns Two Stars

Globe restaurant critic Devra First begins her review of City Landing on the Waterfront by putting it in the context of its predecessor, a location of Sel de la Terre. The latter was "that nice place, recommended by countless concierges" often mentioned in the same breath as the nearby Legal Sea Foods. Meanwhile, City Landing is "perfectly positioned to take over where Sel de la Terre left off." To read into that, City Landing may have the potential to be better than Sel de la Terre, but isn't there yet. Appetizers including a trio of soups and mini lobster rolls receive praise, but entrees and desserts "put the brakes on too many initially promising meals." The fish part of fish and chips is "dry and tough" and beef tenderloin with "a mild-mannered rub of coffee and brown sugar" is good but small, for the price. [BG]

Nautical puns abound in Luke O'Neil's review of the new Harvard Square pub The Boathouse for the Metro. The room is "decked stem to stern with rowing paraphernalia," creating "the type of place you could take a lengthy voyage in." The menu appears angled towards bar neophytes "just getting their sea legs." The rum selection is "decent" though cocktails are often "sweeter, and less carefully constructed than you might find at other bars doing tiki-style drinks now." [Metro]

The second location of SoulFire lacks decor and beer, says Glenn Yoder for the Globe's Cheap Eats column. Both might be remedied in the future, says the owner, which would help the atmosphere match the quality of the food. Yoder calls the spare ribs "smoky and outstanding" and the barbecue Reuben is "a hulking mess of Russian dressing, SoulFire sauce, Swiss cheese, sliced brisket, and coleslaw on marble rye." The "trick" says Yoder is "Get it to go, get it delivered, just don't dine in." [BG]

Chowder's Man Food columnist Richard Chudy visits the new DooWee & Rice in Powderhouse Square, Somerville and finds the food to be "universally clever and enticing." For instance, the "Heart-y-fries," which he compares to "a Vietnamese poutine," combines French fries and fried chicken hearts."The hearts are ultra-crunchy and have an al dente, creamy interior. If you didn't know any better, you'd think they were just a funky chicken nugget, at once adventurous and equally familiar." Though "some dishes may be short on seasoning," the kitchen's "passion and gusto" makes up for it. [C]

City Landing

255 State Street, Boston, MA 02109 617.725.0305 Visit Website

City Landing

255 State Street, Boston, MA